Vegetable Gardening Tips

How to Grow Artichokes
Artichokes are considered a gourmet vegetable due to the delicate flavour of the ball-like flowerheads, which are picked and eaten before they have a chance to bloom. Although plants can be grown from seed, it's far easier to buy ready-rooted suckers to plant in the spring. These plants, which grow to 1.5m x 1m (5ft x 3.25ft), make big clumps of arching, jagged silvery leaves. They make good structural plants as well as having edible flowers. Plants can be grown in groups, 60cm (2ft) apart with 75cm (2.5ft) between rows, but as each produces up to 12 edible heads, one plant may be enough for your needs.

• Choose an open, sunny spot with well-drained soil. The good looks of artichokes means the plants are perfect for the back of a border
• Add plenty of well-rotted manure to the planting site and add horticultural grit to clay soil to improve drainage.
• Use a garden tools such as a rake to spread in some general fertiliser before planting, spreading it at a rate of 60g per sq m.
• Use a garden tool such as a spade to dig a hole bigger than the sucker and plant so that the soil mark on the stem sits at the same level as the surface of the soil
• Fill the hole with soil using your garden tool, ensure the plant is held firmly and water well.
• Water plants with a watering garden tool well until established, ensuring that they don't dry out in hot weather.
• Cut back stems with a cutting garden tool in autumn and protect the crown over winter with a thick mulch of bark chippings, straw or other material
• In early spring use your garden toosl to add a mulch of well-rotted manure to help boost growth
• In its first year, plants need to put all their energy into making growth, so remove any flowerheads as they form.
• In the second year, allow the edible heads to develop for harvesting in summer. Pick the terminal bud (the one at the top) first, when it's large and swollen, but before the scales have started to open - cut off with a few centimetres of stem attached. Pick the side buds when they have reached a decent size.

Growing aubergines, Chillies and peppers
Aubergines, chillies and sweet peppers are ideal plants for pots and growing from seed is foolproof. All three of these delicious crops are grown in the same way and there are lots of great varieties to choose from. Grow plants in pots and place on a sunny patio, balcony or roof space. The process for sowing, germinating and potting on is the same for all three and uses a variety of garden tools.

• use your garden tools to fill a 7.5cm pot with seed compost, level and tap to settle. Lightly firm.
• Scatter the seeds of your chosen variety thinly on top - most seeds germinate so you only need to sow two more seeds than you need in case of losses.
• Cover with a fine layer of vermiculite, water and label - this is important to help you identify them if sowing several varieties.
• Pop into a heated propagator or put a clear plastic bag over the top, secure with a rubber band and place on a windowsill
• Your seeds should start to appear in about a week. Remove the pot from the propagator or take off the bag, and place on a light windowsill. Ensure the compost does not dry out.
• When seedlings are about 2cm tall they can be moved to their own pot. Carefully loosen the compost, then gently hold a leaf and lift, while levering from beneath the roots with a dibber garden tool.
• Use your garden tools to fill a 7.5cm pot with multipurpose compost, level and tap to settle.
• Make a hole in the centre of the compost with a dibber and lower in the seedling, until the leaves are just above the surface of the soil.
• Gently firm, water and label each plant. Keep plants in a light place, such as a windowsill or greenhouse.
• When roots show at the bottom of the pots, use garden tools to move into a bigger, 12cm pot, filled with multipurpose com
• When plants reach about 20cm tall give them some support by staking with a small cane or peastick and securing with garden twine.
• When they're about 30cm pinch out growing tips to increase branching.
• At the end of winter plants can go outside. Pot them into their final container - a 5-litre pot will do. As the plants grow, swap the small stakes for a larger cane.
• In hot weather you may need to water twice a day using watering garden tools. These plants are incredibly thirsty and dry compost will quickly lead to a check in growth. This applies particularly to plants grown in a greenhouse, where it can get very hot even in late summer.
• The first flowers will appear when the plants are quite small. When this happens feed weekly with a liquid feed high in potash, such as tomato fertiliser.
  Harvesting
• Fruits can be harvested with scissors or a sharp knife or similar garden tools between July and September. Chilli peppers can be picked green or left longer to turn red.
• Before the autumn frosts, sever the plants completely and hang the branches upside down so the fruit continues to mature.
• Each aubergine will produce up to five fruits, depending on variety and the weather - pick when they have reached full size and the skin is shiny.

Growing Beetroot
Freshly picked beetroot are  tender with a delicious earthy taste. Best of all, they're really easy to grow from seed. Follow our guide for the perfect crop. Beetroot prefer to be grown in moist, fertile soil in a sunny spot, but will also thrive in raised beds or pots. Although early sowings can be made from late winter, raising plants can be tricky, so for foolproof beetroot, sow seeds directly into the soil from mid-spring.

• To make a seed bed, use garden tools to remove weeds and dig over the site with spade garden tools, removing any particularly large stones.
• Level roughly and then work over the area with rake garden tools to leave a fine finish.
• If you can, two or three weeks before sowing, use garden tools to spread a general granular fertiliser across the site and rake into the soil.
• Seed can be sown directly into the soil from spring - summer
• Make a 2cm (0.75in) deep trench with the corner of a rake garden tool (or cane garden tools will do) and drop in two seeds every 10cm (4in).
• Cover, water well and label - when the seedlings are about 2cm (0.75in) high, remove the weakest of each pair to leave one beetroot seedling every 10cm (4in).
• If you want a plentiful supply of beetroot, sow seeds every month, keeping rows 20cm (8in) apart
• If you have a small garden, beetroot are easy to grow in pots.
• To grow in pots (ideal for round varieties, not long cylindrical ones), choose containers that are 20cm (8in) in diameter and at least 20cm (8in) deep.
• Use garden tools to fill loosely with multi-purpose compost leaving the compost just shy of the top.
• Tap the pot gently to settle, and firm with your finger tips aiming to leave a 4cm (1.5in) gap between the surface of the compost and the top of the pot.
• Sow seeds thinly across the surface and cover with 2cm (0.75in) of compost.
• Water and thin out seedlings when they're about 2cm (0.75in) tall, leaving 12cm (5in) gaps between them.
  After care is easy. Use garden tools to remove weeds and keep seedlings well watered, especially during dry periods as this will stunt the growth of plants.
• Depending on variety, beetroot is ready to be picked when the roots are between the size of a golf ball and a tennis ball - this is usually 90 days after sowing. To harvest, gently hold the tops and lift while levering under the root with a hand fork.
• Remove the tops by twisting them off with your hands to prevent the plants bleeding their juice - don't throw these away, they have bags of taste and can be cooked and eaten like spinach.

Growing Broad Beans
Broad beans are an ancient favourite. Easy to grow, high in protein and rich in vitamin C they're still a must for today's vegetable plot. Broad beans grow best in a sunny situation sheltered from winds and enjoy rich, moisture retentive, well-drained soil.

• Prepare the planting site by use garden tools to dig over and adding leaf mould or well-rotted manure.
• Choose the broad bean variety that suits your needs, hardy cultivars for early autumn sowings or dwarf broad beans for windy areas.
• Use garden tools to dig over the soil to create a seed bed and sow one bean directly 5cm (2in) deep and 23cm (9in) apart.
• Sow in double rows or blocks but stagger plantings to make the best use of space.
• Sowing broad beans under cover can give more reliable germination especially if you have trouble with frozen soil or pests like mice.
• Sow one per 7cm (3in) pot filled with multi-purpose compost. Water in and place in a cool but frost-free place. Avoid heated rooms or hot greenhouses as they will fail to germinate. Harden off before planting out 23cm (9in) apart.
• You can sow broad beans from Autumn onwards, but make sure the ground is not frozen. If it is, you may need to lay some polythene or other material down to warm it up.
• By sowing in autumn you can have beans as early as May, but watch out for frost as this can easily claim your hard work. Cloches, polytunnels or fleece are worth keeping on standby just in case the temperature drops.
• As soon as young beans appear at the base of the plant it's time to 'pinch out' the growing tips. Go to the very top of the plant and remove the tip with two leaves attached, you can compost these or steam them as a leaf vegetable.
• Spacing shouldn't be compromised as good airflow is essential for combating fungal disease.
• As the plants grow you will need to stake them to prevent the fragile stems from bending or breaking and pods being damaged. Stake after the seedlings are up and use anything from pea sticks to bamboo with string to support the plant.
• Dwarf varieties will need less space and less staking and are well worth considering especially on windy or small sites.
• Pick from the bottom up when ripe and continue to harvest frequently. Finger thick beans can be eaten whole or wait until the pod bursts open to harvest the fully ripe beans inside.
• When finished, cut off stems and dig roots back into the soil to make use of captured nitrogen.
• Broad beans are great for storing. You can dry or freeze the beans. To freeze, pick fresh, pod, place in a plastic bag and freeze. To dry, pick,
  pod and lay out the beans in a dry place. Leave beans to completely dry and store in an air tight container. These can be sown next year or rehydrated for use in cooking.

Growing Carrots
Carrot varieties are described as early or maincrop varieties, but also either short-root or long-root varieties. These names give you an idea of when they will crop and the type of soil they're suitable for. Carrots and parsnips grow best in light, sandy soil so if your soil is heavy clay, stony, chalky or doesn't drain particularly well, concentrate on the maincrop, short-root types which cope better with these conditions. Early carrot varieties take around 12 weeks to mature and maincrop carrot varieties are ready in around 16 weeks. Maincrops take up the most space in the garden, but they tend to be the best varieties to grow if you want some for storage.

Success with root vegetables is very much down to the quality of the soil that they're grown in, so it's worth taking the time to prepare your patch. Start digging over your soil using  garden tools in late winter or early spring, removing any stones you find and thoroughly turning the soil until it has a fine, crumbly texture. If your soil is not ideally suitable for carrots or parsnips, you can prepare a large container for sowing instead. When digging over your soil, do not add manure as this makes the soil too rich for the seeds.

• One week before sowing your seeds, use garden tools such as a rake in a light dressing of general fertiliser.
• Carrot seeds are small, but it's wise to plant them as thinly as possible. This reduces the amount of thinning necessary and potential risk from pests.
• Sow the seeds thinly on a sunny, dry day in shallow drills around 2-3cm (1in) deep, covering the seeds once in place. Early sowings in March and April may need to be protected with fleece or a cloche in some parts of the country. If you have difficulty sowing thinly, try mixing the seeds with a handful of sharp sand and then sowing the seeds and sand together. The sand will aid drainage and will allow thinner sowing.
• Once the seeds have germinated and are showing their first rough leaves, thin the seedlings to 5cm (2 in) between plants.
• Parsnips can be grown in a similar way, but as they're larger they should be thinned to 15cm (6 in)
• The plants need little other attention during their growth period, although the plants should be kept well watered - too little water results in coarse, woody roots.
• From middle of summer onwards, start pulling up your carrots as soon as they're big enough to eat. It's best to harvest them in the evening to avoid attracting carrot fly.
• Late-sown carrots must be lifted within 3 months to be stored over the winter.
• Store only the best, undamaged roots, cutting off their foliage and lie the roots between layers of sand in a strong box, ensuring that the roots do not touch. Store the box somewhere cool and dry, and check the carrots occasionally, removing any odd rotten roots before they infect their neighbours.

Growing Cucumbers
Before buying cucumber seed, check that they're ideal for your needs. Greenhouse cucumbers need to be raised in growing bags under the protection of glass, ridge cucumbers are for growing in a sunny spot in well-drained soil outdoors. Alternatively, pick a variety that can be grown both indoors and out.

• Sow in early spring if you plan to grow plants in a heated greenhouse or in mid-spring for unheated greenhouses or to go outdoors.
• Fill a 7.5cm (3in) pot with seed compost and make a 2cm (0.7in) hole with a dibber.
• Push two seeds on their side into the hole. Cover, water and label
• Put in a propagator to germinate.
• Seeds should germinate within a week - when seedlings are 2cm (0.7in) tall, remove the weakest of the pair.
• Keep plants moist and stake with a small garden cane to provide support.
• If growing indoors, use garden tools to plant two cucumbers in a growing bag at the end of May and support with a garden cane attached to the ceiling of the greenhouse.
• If your greenhouse is heated, plants can go into bags from March.
• Plant outdoor cucumbers in early summer. A week or so before planting, acclimatise plants by putting them in a cold frame.
• Alternatively, stand in the shelter of a shaded wall and cover with fleece. Prepare the soil well, adding plenty of well-rotted manure using garden tools and space plants 90cm (35in) apart.
• After planting, the top of the rootball should sit at the same level as the surface of the soil
• Regularly secure stems of indoor varieties to the cane and once it has reached the roof, pinch out the tip.
• Use garden tools to pinch out the shoots from side branches holding fruit, leaving two leaves after each. All female varieties produce fruit on the main stem, so remove laterals altogether.
• Allow outdoor varieties to trail across the ground like marrows.
• When plants have five or six leaves, pinch out the growing tip and allow side branches to grow. If stems do not bear flowers, pinch out at the seventh leaf.
• Many varieties have both male and female flowers on the same plants. Both should be left on outdoor varieties, but pinch off the male flowers when they appear on indoor varieties to prevent the fruit from becoming bitter.
• The flowers are easy to tell apart - the female flower has a swelling beneath it that will become a cucumber. Alternatively, choose all female flower varieties.
• Cucumbers must be kept moist, but not soaking, to prevent a check to the fruit.
• Once the fruit appears, give them a boost by feeding every fortnight with a fertiliser high in potash.
• Remove fruit by cutting off with a pair of secateurs or a sharp knife or similar garden tools
• Outdoor picking usually finishes by Autumn, while harvesting indoors can go on into mid late Autumn.

Growing Fruit Trees

The most commonly planted fruit trees are apple trees but you don't always have to follow convention. Pear, plum, fig and medlar trees can also produce good results. Different varieties produce their fruit at different times of year. The fruit of early ripening trees tends not to keep well whereas later ripening varieties are suitable for storing over winter. A key factor in getting a successful crop is the tree's rootstock. To ensure a productive tree, nurseries attach part of one tree to another recommended for growing fruit. This is called grafting, allowing you to benefit from the healthy rootstock of one tree and the tasty fruit of another. Rootstocks come in various sizes so ask your nursery which suit most gardens.

You also need to be aware of the potential size your tree will grow to and whether it's self-fertilising. Self-fertile trees will produce fruit without the need for another tree to pollinate it. If your tree is not self-fertile it will need to be paired with another one. Trees can be bought either in a container or bare-rooted. In both cases look for well-developed fibrous roots. For container grown trees, check that roots aren't congested and choose younger trees (1-3 years) which tend to establish quicker. Avoid plants that show any sign of disease.

• Soak the roots before planting. Bare-root trees can be planted late autumn to early winter as this is when the tree is in its dormant stage.
• Avoid planting if there's a frost - place roots into moist soil until conditions improve.
• Container-grown trees can be planted at any time of year except when frosty or if the soil is too dry or too wet.
• Place your tree in a sunny and sheltered position. This will maximise the time your fruit has to ripen.
• Use garden tools to dig a hole a third wider than the roots and to the same depth as the tree's roots, firming the bottom of the hole into a slight mound. Insert the stake and your tree.
• Fill in with soil and mound towards the base of the tree attaching it to the stake.
• If you're growing your tree in a container, use garden tools to half fill a large tub with soil-based potting compost and place your tree on top. Fill the tub with more soil to the base of the tree, water well and feed regularly.
• A great way to make use of limited space is to train the tree along a south-facing wall or fence. Using a wall or fence allows for a longer ripening time as the wall will soak up the heat.
• Make sure the structure is strong enough to support the tree in crop.
• To protect your fruit tree from moths that will destroy the fruit and leaves, apply a grease band 45cm (18in) above soil level to the stake and trunk of your tree.
• This is a sticky paper or glue that will stop wingless female moths being able to reach the branches of the tree to mate, of which its caterpillars will eat the leaves and fruit.
• Grease bands should be applied late October and reapplied as necessary.
• Additionally, apply a plant oil-based winter wash in December or January to kill off any overwintering pests.

Growing Peach Trees
There are dozens of different varieties of peach and nectarine to try but for pot-grown trees a dwarf variety is needed. We would recommend 'Bonanza' or 'Garden Lady' for yellow fleshed peaches in mid-season. If you prefer the smooth skins of nectarines then you could try 'Nectarella' or 'Terrace Ruby'. These terrace fruits need virtually no pruning. They're naturally slow growing and stay quite compact, perhaps reaching only 1.2m to 1.5m (4ft to 5ft) in ten years. Growing them in pots also keeps the trees smaller than planting them in a border.

Remember that these trees come from a warmer climate and don't like to sit in boggy ground. Ensure your container is free draining and if there aren't adequate holes in the base, then drill several at even intervals to to improve drainage and prevent waterlogging.

• Place potted trees in full sun.
• Trees under cover grow rapidly so always feed and water well. Mulching in early spring conditions the soil and encourages it to retain moisture.
• It's better to do occasional copious watering than frequent light applications. If pruning, do so in spring.
• Peach and nectarine trees flower extremely early in the year, so to enjoy their flowering display and prevent blooms being damaged by frost, move potted trees under cover from mid-winter.
• Pot-grown trees are best grown outside until the end of December, then brought into an unheated greenhouse or conservatory, where they'll flower from February through to early April, depending on the variety.
• Encourage more fruit by pollinating open blooms by hand using a soft brush, particularly as few insects will be out so early in the year to do the job. Misting over the blossoms with a fine spray of water can also help
• If a tree has a lot of developing fruitlets, thin them out. Start by removing every other one, leaving remaining fruits about 5cm (2in) apart. As fruits develop, thin them again to give remaining fruits enough space to swell and ripen.
• The more fruits kept, the smaller they'll grow. However, a three or four-year-old tree should easily carry 20 fruits. Early varieties, like 'Terrace Ruby', should be ready in July, and later varieties through August into early September.
• Harvesting time is dependent on crop type and variety. It's best to pick the fruits when they're fully ripe.
• Hold one in your hand and use your thumb to apply gentle pressure to the part of the fruit nearest to the stalk. If it 'gives' slightly the fruit's ready. Peaches and nectarines are best eaten as soon as possible but they can be stored for a few days in a cool place.
  Pests and diseases
• Peach trees can be attacked by aphids, birds, red spider mites, earwigs and root-knot nematodes. Diseases include botrytis, bacterial canker and peach leaf curl.
  However patio grown trees are less likely to suffer from these problems. 

Growing Potatoes

There are dozens of different potato varieties, usually described as early, second early and maincrop potatoes.These names indicate when they crop and also give you an idea of the space you'll need, how closely and when they can be planted. You should concentrate on the earlier types if you're short of space, and it's also worth remembering that earlies are less likely to encounter pest problems as they're lifted so much earlier in the year.

• Second earlies take 16 to 17 weeks to mature after planting, so you should be able to harvest them from very late June through to the start of August.
• Maincrops are ready 18 to 20 weeks after planting, so they can be lifted usually from July through to October. Maincrops take up the most space in the garden, but they tend to be the best varieties to grow if you want some for storage.
• Chitting simply means encouraging the seed potatoes to sprout before planting. Start chitting from late January in warmer parts of the country or in February in cooler areas, about six weeks before you intend to plant out the potatoes.
• Each seed potato has a more rounded, blunt end that has a number of 'eyes'.
• Stand the tubers with the blunt end uppermost in trays or old egg boxes, with plenty of natural light.
• The potatoes are ready to be planted out when the shoots are 1.5-2.5cm (0.5-1in) long
• Use garden tools to plant your chitted potatoes when the soil has started to warm up, usually from mid-March or early April. Start by digging a trench 7.5-13cm (3-5in) deep, although the exact depth should vary according to the variety of potato you're planting
• Add a light sprinkling of fertiliser to your trench before you begin planting.
• Plant early potatoes about 30cm (12in) apart with 40-50cm (16-20in) between the rows, and second earlies and maincrops about 38cm (15in) apart with 75cm (30in) between the rows.
• Handle your chitted tubers with care, gently setting them into the trench with the shoots pointing upwards, being careful not to break the shoots. Cover the potatoes lightly with soil.
• As soon as the shoots appear, earth up each plant by using your garden tools covering it with a ridge of soil so that the shoots are just buried.
• You need to do this at regular intervals and by the end of the season each plant will have a small mound around it about 15cm (6in) high.
  Harvesting
• Your home-grown potatoes should be ready for lifting from June until September, depending on the varieties and the growing conditions. Earlies can be lifted and eaten as soon as they're ready.
• This will be when above-ground growth is still green, and usually as soon as the flowers open.
• Second and maincrop varieties can be kept in the ground much longer, until September, even though above-ground growth may well be looking past its best.
• Two weeks before you lift the crop, cut the growth off at ground level. This should give the skins of the potatoes sufficient time to toughen up, making them far less prone to damage from lifting and easier to store.
• Potatoes like plenty of sun, so avoid planting them in frost-prone sites, as these conditions can damage the developing foliage. If you're starting up a vegetable plot on very weedy ground or old grassland, potatoes may help swamp out weeds with their fast-growing, extensive foliage.
• If you're short of space, try growing potatoes in an adequately drained container that's at least 30cm (1ft) deep and wide. Half fill the pot with multi-purpose compost or good quality, fertile garden soil, nestle two seed potatoes into the top of the compost and then top up with more compost or soil to within 2.5cm (1in) of the rim of the container.
• It's particularly important that there's adequate water once the tubers have reached the size of marbles. Unless there's regular, ample rainfall,
  the size and quality of the crop will be reduced if you don't water your potatoes.

Growing Peas

 Sow seeds in a cold frame in autumn or straight into the ground in spring, and you'll be eating sweet, tender peas straight from the pod all through the summer months. Peas come in two varieties: shelling and mangetout. Shelling peas mature at different times. Earlies take around 12 weeks, second earlies take 14 weeks and maincrops take 16 weeks. Shelling peas come in round and wrinkle-seeded varieties. Choose round seeds for hardiness and early sowings, and wrinkled for sweetness and summer sowings.

Peas require a sunny, nutrient-rich, moisture-retentive site. Use garden tools to dig over the soil and add plenty of compost or well-rotted manure - this will help to improve the soil's moisture-retaining ability in hot, dry summers.

• Peas sown in cold, wet ground will rot off, so make sure the soil is warm. In early spring, cover the soil with polythene before sowing and then protect seedlings with a fleece. Sow shorter varieties in a flat trench, 5cm (2in) deep and 25cm (10in) wide.
• Water the trench first, then sow the seeds 5-7cm (2in) apart in three rows along the bottom of the trench. Use garden tools to backfill the trench with soil and firm the ground gently
• Many dwarf and semi-leafless varieties can also be sown in small blocks. Stagger seeds 13cm (6in) apart, pushing the seed to a depth of 5cm (2in) into the ground.
• For taller varieties, sow seed in a single row 5-10cm (2-4in) apart, ensuring there's enough space for plant supports. Make a single V-shaped drill, 5cm (2in) deep, water the base of the drill and sow the peas. A second row can be added, as long as it's 30cm (12in) away from the first drill.
• For a succession of peas, sow at two-week intervals.
• Use bamboo canes, trellis or netting to create supports for plants.
• Once peas have reached 5-8cm (2-3in) in height and their tendrils begin to reach out for support, place stakes next to plants.
• To grow an early crop, try sowing seeds in a length of old guttering from late September through to mid November. Drill drainage holes at regular intervals along the base. Fill to the top with seed compost and add an early pea variety, such as 'Feltham First', spacing the seeds at about 7.5cm (3in) apart.
• Place the guttering in the greenhouse, or a cold frame. Keep the compost moist and transplant into the garden once the seedlings have established. Use garden tools to dig out a shallow trench and gently slide the pea seedlings into it. Water and cover with cloches to encourage growth.
• Regular picking is essential for a truly fresh pea. Harvest from the bottom of the plant working upwards.
• Don't pull the plant after harvest, as the roots are full of nitrogen-fixing bacteria. Cut off the stems at ground level, allowing the roots to rot down and release nitrogen back into the soil for the next crop to use.

Growing Pumpkins Tips

• Seeds can be sown in pots from April to June. Fill a 7.5cm (3in) pot with compost, place a seed in on its side 2.5cm (1in) deep and cover.
• Label, water and place on a windowsill or in a propagator. When roots begin to show though the bottom of the pot transfer into a 12.5cm (5in) pot.
• Once seedlings have established, plant outside spacing them 2-3m (6-10ft) apart. Seeds can also be sown from late May to early summer directly into the ground.
• Choose a sunny, sheltered spot and improve the soil before planting by digging in well-rotted manure or compost. Sow two seeds on their side 2.5cm (1in) deep.
• Once the seedlings have germinated, remove the weakest one.
  Looking after plants
• Protect seedlings with mulch and feed with general fertiliser or tomato plant food, watering regularly though the growing season.
• If you're growing larger varieties use wire as a guide to train shoots as they grow.
• Remove some fruits before they develop, leaving two or three fruits on the plant. This will encourage the plant to put its energy into producing larger fruit.
• As the fruits get bigger raise them up onto a piece of wood or brick to protect them from rotting. Remove any leaves shading the fruit as it needs maximum light to ripen.
• If there's a risk of an early frost protect the fruit with cardboard and straw.
• Leave the fruit on the plant for as long as possible to mature and ripen. When the stem cracks and the skin is very tough, the fruit is ready to be picked.
• Use garden tools to cut fruit off with a long stalk before the first frost. Pumpkins can be stored between four to six months.
• Expose the pumpkin to sunlight outside for ten days or keep indoors at 27-32ºC (81-
  90ºF) for four days to harden.
• Keep your pumpkin stored in a well-ventilated place at about 10ºC degrees (50ºF). 

Growing Sweetcorn

Plant sweetcorn in the spring and by late summer you’ll be picking lots of fresh cobs, which are far tastier and more succulent than any you can buy in the shop. There are many varieties to try, all of which will thrive in a sheltered, sunny spot with well-drained soil.Sweetcorn is wind pollinated and best planted in large blocks, where the male flowers at the top of the plant have more opportunity to shed their pollen on the female tassels (where the cobs will form) below. Each plant will produce one or two cobs, so work out how many cobs you're likely to need (you can freeze them) and provide enough space to achieve this.

• Sweetcorn likes free-draining, moisture retentive soil. If you can, prepare the bed the previous autumn before planting, adding plenty of well-rotted manure to the soil.
• Don't worry if you never had time, beds can still be made in the spring. First remove weeds and dig over the site with a spade or other garden tools, removing any particularly large stones.
• Level roughly and then work over the area with a rake or other garden tools to leave a fine finish.
  Seeds or plants
• Ready-grown plants will establish quickly and provide cobs earlier than sowing seed directly into the soil.
  Sowing into pots
• In April, fill a 7.5cm pot with compost, make a 2.5cm deep hole in the top with dibber (a pencil will do if you don't have one) and drop two seeds in.
• Cover, water and put on a windowsill to germinate. When seedlings are about 2cm tall discard the weakest one and put plants in a shady place outdoors to toughen up before planting out.
  Planting out
• To ensure your crop gets off to a flying start, spread some general fertiliser granules over the planting area and gently rake or use other garden tools in to the surface.
• If you can, try to do this two or three weeks before planting or sowing.
• Ready-grown plants can go into the soil from May. Using a trowel, set sweetcorn plants 35cm apart with 60cm between rows to form a block.
• There are no rules about how large the block has to be, this will be determined by how many plants you decide to grow.
• Alternatively, if you forgot to grow plants earlier, you can still grow corn by planting seeds directly into the soil in late spring and early summer.
• Use a dibber to make 2.5cm holes and sow two seeds every 35cm with 60cm between rows. Cover and water.
• Remove the weakest of each pair of seedlings when they're about 2cm tall.
• In cooler climates it's worth protecting the emerging seedlings with fleece, held down with stones.
• Keep plants well watered and the soil weed free.
• Use a Dutch hoe or other garden toolsto slice off annual weeds, taking care not to sever the surface growing roots of the sweetcorn.
• To protect these and to give plants more stability, pile soil up around the stems with a draw hoe.
• Corn is ready when the silky tassels at the end of the cobs turn brown, but check by carefully peeling back the leaves and pinching a kernel.
• If the juice is milky, cobs are ready to pick. To do this, simply twist the cob away from the plant.